Assisi

When we visited Assisi we had, quite possibly, the most fantastic guide in the entire world.  The tour was intriguing, enlightening and very entertaining.  The thing that stuck in my mind most was the transition and incredible development between the frescos of middle church and upper church within the Basilica Papale di San Francesco Assisi.  As our tour guide described it the unknown artist who painted the walls of the middle church was “like a baby crawling from the Byzantine.”  Although the images were hinting towards three dimensions and perspective, they were still slightly iconic lacking detail, human likeness and movement.  One fresco he liked to describe as “Saint Francis and the Chickens;” it was actually this unknown artist’s depiction of Saint Francis’ sermon to the birds.

It stands in stark contrast to the upper church fresco of the same scene.

This fresco is thought to have been painted by Giotto and, unlike its downstairs counterpart incorporates detail, three dimensional elements like shading and perspective, human likeness and movement.  The birds are flying, the trees have leaves, the clothing has movement and hangs as if being worn, and it is realistic.

As our fantastic guide pointed out, this growth and dramatic change occurred over a period of just 35 years.  This is what the Renaissance was about:  A great leap towards humanism including the desire to expand and appreciate the human capacity for knowledge, wisdom, learning, creativity and art, in addition to the pre-existing dedication to the church and papacy.  These two frescos are an appropriate portrayal of the major shift that occurred during the Renaissance.

Assisi made me think:  How does a group of people grow and further themselves that quickly?  Are we living in the new Renaissance?  Do we have historical self-consciousness?  Or are we headed to a 21^st century dark age?

On a separate note, I think that the symbolic shift of the three levels of the Basilica was ingenious.  The lowest level – dark and bleak, containing the grave of Saint Francis, representing death.  The middle level – lighter yet still muted and darker toned with higher ceilings, representing the human life.  The upper level – brightest, vibrant and light colors with lofty ceilings, representing the eternal heavenly life.  It was nifty.